Bearded Dragons

Bearded Dragons originate in Australia and thrive in arid or semi-arid climates. 

Below we will cover proper enclosures, temperature and humidity, lighting, feeding + nutritional requirements, reproductive complications (regardless of breeding), temperament, and common health problems.

Enclosure 

These amazing reptiles are terrestrial, which means that they prefer long enclosures with rocks and other short decorations to climb and hide under. 

- Please ensure that all decorations in the enclosure can support their full weight, as they will climb on literally everything, and falling can cause injury. Also ensure that no decorations are so heavy they could become squished under them. 

- They prefer to have several basking zones located in different portions of their cage. They need to be able to freely move throughout the enclosure, so not all decorations need to be in the same location. They also prefer to have “hiding” spots.

- They can thrive in either bioactive or artificial environments. If live plants are placed in the enclosure, they will likely take bites out of them from time to time, so ensure that the types of plants used are non toxic. Refrain from using plants that have been treated with fertilizer and/or pesticides as these can also be harmful. 

-They can thrive in 5 sided tanks/enclosures with one mesh surface to allow breathing (like a fish tank with a mesh lid, or a front opening enclosure with a mesh lid).

-Please keep them out of the direct line of an ac/heating vent that can rapidly change the temperature of their ambient air. 

-When they are babies, they can easily tolerate a smaller 10 gallon enclosure. As they grow they will need plenty of room to move around. The minimum size for an adult is a 120 gallon tank, however they would thrive in a larger area. Custom built enclosures can provide more space than a store-bought one. 

Substrate: 

-Bearded Dragons can thrive on many different types of substrate. They are often kept in tanks with a changeable felt/reptile-carpet bottom, which allows for simple and easy cleanup. While it is often recommended, and much better than several alternatives, felt/carpet can harbor bacteria and lead to various infections if not disinfected properly on a regular basis. They thrive in a moisture maintained dirt mix (50% reptile safe topsoil and 50% play sand). -We do not recommend keeping them on plain sand, as it can lead to dehydration and prevent them from properly shedding. It can also lead to impaction if accidentally ingested. 

Temperatures and humidity:

Bearded Dragons thrive in arid climates, as they are native to Australia. They enjoy heat and low humidity, however, like all reptiles, they need a cool space to escape to in order to regulate temperature.  

Humidity should be maintained around 30-40%. This can be easily measured by using a hygrometer placed in the middle of the enclosure. To achieve humidity in dry climates, you can lightly mist the enclosure with water 1-2 times per day. 

Temperature: 

- All reptiles need access to a warm side and a cool side of the enclosure, as they are unable to thermoregulate (regulate their own temperature through bodily function).

-The cool side needs to be 80-85 °F during the day and the hot side (particularly the basking zone) needs to be between 88-95°F. Nightime temps can drop, but need to be above 70-75 °F. 

- We recommend using either a ceramic heat emitter or a heat bulb to maintain temperatures. Utilizing two thermostats (one on the warm side and one on the cool side) will ensure the heat is controlled and not too hot for your pet. The larger the enclosure, the larger the necessary bulb wattage.  These heating sources need to be outside of the enclosure or separated by a barrier so the Beardie cannot attempt to crawl on them and accidentally burn themselves.

DO NOT. WE REPEAT. DO NOT USE AN ELECTRICALLY HEATED ROCK IN THE ENCLOSURE. They will lead to severe burns. 

Diet:

Bearded dragons consume a wide variety of food in the wild, therefore they need a variety of food in captivity. Feeding a variant diet will help ensure that they will receive all the nutrients they need. They should consume safe (non- toxic)  insects that have been gut loaded. 

- They should be offered a “salad” daily with a mix of calcium rich leafy greens and vegetables. The leafy greens (majority of the salad) should be collards, dandelion greens and flowers, escarole, endive, grape leaves, mustard greens, turnip greens, and watercress. The veggies to mix in can be squash, bell peppers, carrots, green beans, peas, sweet potatoes,and  turnips. 

Kale, cabbage, and chard are high in calcium oxalates which can cause metabolic bone disease. These vegetables can be fed very sparingly. 

- For insects, they should be offered size appropriate mealworms and crickets. Feeding insects too large can cause health issues. These insects should be captive raised, to prevent feeding them insects that may have pesticides, parasites, and unsafe fertilizers. Hornworms and wax worms should be fed more sparingly, as they have less of the nutrients that reptiles need and are more of a “dessert” to them. Insects should be “gut-loaded” which means fed a nutrient rich diet for at least 48 hours prior to being fed to the beardie.  

- Bearded Dragons in captivity need help maintaining vitamin D3 and calcium levels. Their food will need to be dusted with a calcium powder 3 meals per week. A bowl of calcium powder should never be left out, as they can “overdo” it on the calcium. Please ensure that you use calcium only, as the powders that are mixed with vitamin D3 and phosphorus can cause health issues. Failure to provide calcium can lead to a variety of health issues, with the most common being Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). 

- Remember that some insects and vegetation are toxic. Toxic insects that should never be fed to a reptile include: Lady bugs, fireflies, monarch butterflies, lubber hoppers, horn worms that have been on tomato plants, box elder beetles, assassins bugs, centipedes, hairy caterpillars, milkweed bugs, bees or wasps-Unless stingers removed, spiders, some butterflies & moths, isopods. For information on toxic vegetation please refer to a beardie safe plant list. Keep in mind that safe plants can easily be made unsafe with the use of fertilizers and pesticides, which can live in the soil for quite some time. 

Lighting: 

In addition to a heating source, bearded dragons need special lighting to help maintain vitamin D3 levels. They will need a specialized reptile artificial UVB bulb over/in their cage that stays on for 10-12 hours each day. The size/output of the bulb necessary will vary depending on cage size and depth. The bulb will need to span the length of the cage, so a “light bar” is preferred.

Diagram of appropriate lighting set up for bearded dragons.

Temperament:

Bearded dragons, once they reach sexual maturity, are “loners” and prefer to be housed alone without a view of other reptiles. Placing two cages next to one another without a visual barrier between them will leave room for aggression and aggression-caused-injuries. 

We would not recommend housing other types of reptiles or amphibians with them, as they will likely cause harm to those critters, or attempt to fight and can injure themselves. 

Just like other reptiles, it will take some time for them to become comfortable with handling. We recommend handling in short intervals until they get used to you. Once grown, they can both scratch and bite. 

Due to their aggressive nature, please take great caution when introducing males and females for breeding purposes. When breeding, it is best to introduce the male into the female’s enclosure. This will help prevent possible injury and aggression due to a male's territorial tendencies.

When handled appropriately and frequently, Beardies can be amazing friends. They are quick to learn and can be trained (kind of like cats and dogs). You can teach them to do things like “come”, go to a certain area for bathroom activities, and more! They will give off “cues” indicating things like their mood and hunger. Some people give them access to the whole house, with a ramp giving them the ability to return home. If you choose to do this, ensure that they are in their cages for several hours each day to allow their bodies to soak up the UVB that they need. We also recommend not allowing them to free roam in situations with other animals that could bring them harm. We recommend not allowing them to free roam outdoors without very attentive supervision, and a method to prevent escape. 

Reproduction: 

Regardless of your intent to breed, there are things you should know about their sex-specific organs and the problems that can occur with them. 

Females: 

• Female bearded dragons will lay eggs up to every 30 days during their 4-5 month long breeding season. Some will only lay once per breeding season. Regardless of breeding status. Eggs laid without breeding are “infertile”. If sperm have been introduced to them, they are “fertile”.

• A group of eggs laid at once is called a “clutch”. She will gain weight right before laying her clutch. 

• She also may abandon food for a few days prior to laying. 

• They will need a moist, soft area within their enclosure often referred to as a “laying bin”. This can be a tupperware with sphagnum moss and holes cut for easy in and out access. 

• Without having a place to lay them, they can refuse to lay their eggs and this can cause serious medical issues. 

• They can also become “egg bound” which refers to the inability to lay eggs, which is a medical emergency. 

• She can also store sperm from a previous mating and use it to fertilize several clutches of eggs. 

• Females are more prone to prolapsed cloaca ( the hole by which they breed and urinate and poop), which is a medical emergency. A prolapse is when the part of the cloaca that should not be seen and is on the inside, pops out. 

Males:

• Male beardies have pores on the inside of their thighs, called femoral pores, which secrete pheromones. The purpose of the pheromones is to mark their territory and attract mates. These pores can become clogged, resulting in discomfort and occasionally infection. The pores naturally will appear to have a plug, and that does not necessarily mean that they are clogged. If the pores are clogged or “impacted”, you will notice a fluid-like secretion from around the plug. The area will be red and swollen as well. If you suspect pore impaction, you should seek veterinary care, as antibiotics and professional removal of the plug. 

• Males can have prolapsed hemipenes, which is when their reproductive organs become stuck on the outside of the body. Their hemipenes are just inside of the cloaca.

Common medical issues: 

The most common medical issue that bearded dragons can have is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), which can be fatal. This is typically the result of a calcium and vitamin D3 deficient reptile. If proper lighting and food supplementation are not maintained, MBD is almost guaranteed to happen. Signs of MBD include: lethargy, difficulty standing or walking and controlling limbs, swollen joints (mainly in legs), muscle twitches, flexible bones, fragile bones, and curvature of the spine. Leg movements will also be erratic and abnormal. Bearded dragon with this disease should be removed from enclosures with decorations and placed in an enclosure where they cannot fall and injure themselves further. With proper treatment, metabolic bone disease can be slowly reversed, but most of the time a treated reptile will still have some physical abnormalities. 

Eye issues are the second most common issue to occur in bearded dragons. If they are not able to properly shed, they can retain their eye caps. Retained eye caps can lead to injury and infection, not to mention impair vision. Other issues can include general injury and infection. Any eye problems should be seen by a veterinarian immediately. 

For females, egg retention or becoming “egg bound” is a main concern. Typically this is due to calcium/vitamin D3 deficiency, but can occur from other health issues as well. Unfortunately, there really are no home remedies and she will need to visit a veterinarian. 

Respiratory infections are common in beardies, and often result from inadequate humidity levels in their enclosure. Often pet stores tell owners to provide excessive humidity, which can be catastrophic for this desert breed. If your dragon is showing signs of a respiratory infection, such as discharge from the nose or eyes or rapid/labored breathing, seek veterinary attention immediately. 

Stomatitis, also known as mouth-rot, or inflammation of the mouth, is also common for these reptiles. Typically stomatitis is due to injury, nutritional deficiencies, or environmental issues. It can easily lead to infection and should always be treated by a veterinarian. 

Aside from a female about to lay a clutch of eggs, bearded dragons should see a veterinarian if they gain or lose weight rapidly, have sunken/hollow eyes, difficulty breathing, diarrhea or other gastrointestinal issues, injuries, seem very lethargic, or have any other concerning symptoms. 

Stuck shed occurs when a reptile is unable to free themselves of their shed skin. It is often a sign of dehydration, and any shedding reptile should have access to a humid hide. If the shed becomes stuck and is not loosened and removed carefully, infections and scale rot can occur. 

Scale rot is a broad term that refers to any type of dermatitis on a reptile, which can be caused by an infection, burn, inflammation, and more. It is often caused by poor husbandry (incorrect environment for the specific reptile) and/or unsanitary living. 

Impaction can be common in bearded dragons, especially if they are improperly kept on a sand-only substrate. Impaction occurs when a bearded dragon cannot move fecal material through and out of the digestive system. It can be a sign of dehydration, but is often caused by foreign material in the digestive tract.

Typical layout of a 4ft bearded dragon vivarium.