Crested/Eyelash Geckos

Proper Husbandry:

Crested geckos originate in the Pacific islands and thrive in tropical climates. They are primarily nocturnal, but still require UVB and heat regulation.  

Below we will cover proper enclosures, temperature and humidity, lighting, feeding + nutritional requirements, reproductive complications (regardless of breeding), temperament, and common health problems.

Enclosure 

These amazing reptiles are arboreal, which means that they prefer tall enclosures with vines and trees and other decorations to climb and hide under. 

- Please ensure that all decorations in the enclosure can support their full weight, as they will climb on literally everything, and falling can cause injury. Also ensure that no decorations are so heavy they could become squished under them. 

- They prefer to have several basking zones located in different portions of their cage. They need to be able to freely move throughout the enclosure, so not all decorations need to be in the same location. They also prefer to have “hiding” spots.

- They can thrive in either bioactive or artificial environments. If live plants are placed in the enclosure, they will likely take bites out of them from time to time, so ensure that the types of plants used are non toxic. Refrain from using plants that have been treated with fertilizer and/or pesticides as these can also be harmful. 

-They can thrive in hard sided tanks/enclosures with one mesh surface to allow breathing (like a fish tank with a mesh lid, or a front opening enclosure with a mesh lid).

-Please keep them out of the direct line of an ac/heating vent that can rapidly change the temperature of their ambient air. 

-When they are babies, they can easily tolerate a smaller 12”x12”x18” gallon enclosure. As they grow they will need plenty of room to move around. The minimum size for an adult is a 18”x18”x20” gallon tank, however they would thrive in a larger area. Custom built enclosures can provide more space than a store-bought one. If you happen to be housing more than one Crested Gecko in one enclosure, they will need additional space to prevent territorial aggression. (See temperament for guidelines on housing multiple geckos together). 

-Their enclosure should be cleaned and disinfected once per week, to prevent illness. Crested gecko’s absorb their moisture through their skin, which leaves them significantly more susceptible to infections and toxins. 

Substrate: 

Crested Geckos thrive with a substrate that allows for moisture retention, as they prefer a tropical environment. Many people prefer a layered bioactive substrate setup, while others prefer a mix of 60% topsoil and 40% coco-fiber. Whatever substrate you choose, make sure that it is safe for your reptile. Various substrate options are available in pet stores, and they are fertilizer free and safe for your reptile. We do not recommend using sand, as it can lead to humidity problems. 

Temperatures and humidity:

Crested Geckos thrive in tropical climates, as they are native to the Pacific islands. They enjoy medium heat and higher humidity, however, like all reptiles, need a cool space to escape to in order to regulate temperature. 

Humidity should be maintained around 50%. This can be easily measured by using a hygrometer placed in the middle of the enclosure. To achieve humidity, you can lightly mist the enclosure with water 1-2 times per day. 

Temperature: 

- All reptiles need access to a warm side and a cool side of the enclosure, as they are unable to thermoregulate (regulate their own temperature through bodily function).

Their enclosures should be maintained between 68°F-80°F with a basking spot of 80°F. This would leave the cool side of the enclosure around 68°F-72°F. 

- We recommend using either a ceramic heat emitter or a heat bulb to maintain temperatures. Utilizing two thermostats (one for the warm side and one for the cool side) will ensure the heat is controlled and not too hot for your pet. The larger the enclosure, the larger the necessary bulb wattage.  These heating sources need to be outside of the enclosure or separated by a barrier so the crested geckos cannot attempt to crawl on them and accidentally burn themselves.

Some people prefer to place a reptile heating pad on the outside of one side of the enclosure (often called an under-tank heater) to help maintain a heated area in places where the enclosure will not drop below 68°F. 

DO NOT. WE REPEAT. DO NOT USE AN ELECTRICALLY HEATED ROCK IN THE ENCLOSURE. They will lead to severe burns. 

Diet:

Crested Geckos actually absorb most of their water intake through their skin. Therefore, their water dishes will need to be shallow and large enough for them to soak in. They will also need to be cleaned and disinfected with a reptile safe disinfectant daily. Water dishes should be placed on the cooler end of the enclosure to prevent evaporation. If your gecko is not soaking on their own, either due to a medical issue or other issues, you should help them soak for 10-15 minutes per day. 

Crested geckos have very specific food requirements. It is best to give them commercial food, as it is specifically formulated for their needs. Commercial crested gecko food usually comes in a powder that is mixed with water immediately before feeding. They should consume safe (non- toxic)  insects that have been gut loaded once or twice a week. They can also be offered soft fruits as an occasional treat.  

- For insects, they should be offered a variety of crickets, mealworms, dubia roaches, and waxworms. These insects should be captive raised, to prevent feeding them insects that may have pesticides, parasites, and unsafe fertilizers. Waxworms should be fed more sparingly, as they have less of the nutrients that reptiles need and are more of a “dessert” to them. Insects should be “gut-loaded” which means fed a nutrient rich diet for at least 48 hours prior to being fed to the gecko.  

- Crested geckos in captivity need help maintaining vitamin D3 and calcium levels. Their insect food will need to be dusted with a calcium powder at atleast 3 meals per week. A bowl of calcium powder should never be left out, as they can “overdo” it on the calcium. In pet stores you can purchase a combo of calcium and D3 powder. Do not use calcium with phosphorus added, as this can damage the kidneys and cause gout. Failure to provide calcium can lead to a variety of health issues, with the most common being Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). 

- Remember that some insects and vegetation are toxic. Toxic insects that should never be fed to a reptile include: Lady bugs, fireflies, monarch butterflies, lubber hoppers, horn worms that have been on tomato plants, box elder beetles, assassins bugs, centipedes, hairy caterpillars, milkweed bugs, bees or wasps-Unless stingers removed, spiders

some butterflies & moths, isopods. For information on toxic vegetation please refer to a crestie safe plant list. Keep in mind that safe plants can easily be made unsafe with the use of fertilizers and pesticides, which can live in the soil for quite some time. 

Lighting: 

In addition to a heating source, Crested geckos need special lighting to help maintain vitamin D3 levels. They will need a specialized reptile artificial UVB bulb over/in their cage that stays on for 10-12 hours each day. Though they are nocturnal, they will absorb the proper amount of UVB, just like they do in the wild. The size/output of the bulb necessary will vary depending on cage size and depth. The bulb will need to span the length of the cage, so a “light bar” is preferred.

Diagram of appropriate lighting set up for geckos.

Temperament:

Crested geckos, once they reach sexual maturity, are usually kept alone. 2 males can never be kept together, due to their aggressive territorial nature. With the proper environment and plenty of space, sometimes 2 females can be kept together. A breeding pair can be housed together while breeding, but then they will need to be separated to prevent injury and allow the female to lay eggs in a safe environment. 2 females should not be housed together if you intend on breeding either in the near future.

We would not recommend housing other types of reptiles or amphibians with them, as they will likely cause harm to those critters, or attempt to fight and can injure themselves. 

Just like other reptiles, it will take some time for them to become comfortable with handling. We recommend handling in short intervals until they get used to you. Once grown, they can bite. They also can jump great distances and may try to leap away from you. 

Due to their aggressive nature, please take great caution when introducing males and females for breeding purposes. When breeding, it is best to introduce the male into the female’s enclosure. This will help prevent possible injury and aggression due to a male's territorial tendencies.

Reproduction: 

Regardless of your intent to breed, there are things you should know about their sex-specific organs and the problems that can occur with them. 

Females: 

• Female Crested geckos geckos will lay eggs about once per month. Regardless of breeding status. Eggs laid without breeding are “infertile”. If sperm have been introduced to them, they are “fertile”.

• A group of eggs laid at once is called a “clutch”. Her clutch will likely only be 2 eggs.

• She also may abandon food for a few days prior to laying. 

• They will need a moist, soft area within their enclosure often referred to as a “laying bin”. This can be a tupperware with sphagnum moss and holes cut for easy in and out access. 

• Without having a place to lay them, they can refuse to lay their eggs and this can cause serious medical issues. 

• They can also become “egg bound” which refers to the inability to lay eggs, which is a medical emergency. 

• She can also store sperm from a previous mating and use it to fertilize several clutches of eggs. 

• Females are more prone to prolapsed cloaca ( the hole by which they breed and urinate and poop), which is a medical emergency. A prolapse is when the part of the cloaca that should not be seen and is on the inside, pops out. 

Males:

• Male Crested geckos geckos have pores on the inside of their thighs, called femoral pores, which secrete pheromones. The purpose of the pheromones is to mark their territory and attract mates. These pores can become clogged, resulting in discomfort and occasionally infection. The pores naturally will appear to have a plug, and that does not necessarily mean that they are clogged. If the pores are clogged or “impacted”, you will notice a fluid-like secretion from around the plug. The area will be red and swollen as well. If you suspect pore impaction, you should seek veterinary care, as antibiotics and professional removal of the plug. 

• Males can have prolapsed hemipenes, which is when their reproductive organs become stuck on the outside of the body. Their hemipenes are just inside of the cloaca.

Common medical issues: 

The most common medical issue that Crested geckos can have is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), which can be fatal. This is typically the result of a calcium and vitamin D3 deficient reptile. If proper lighting and food supplementation are not maintained, MBD is almost guaranteed to happen. Signs of MBD include: lethargy, difficulty standing or walking and controlling limbs, swollen joints (mainly in legs), muscle twitches, flexible bones, fragile bones, and curvature of the spine. Leg movements will also be erratic and abnormal. Cresties with this disease should be removed from enclosures with decorations and placed in an enclosure where they cannot fall and injure themselves further. With proper treatment, metabolic bone disease can be slowly reversed, but most of the time a treated reptile will still have some physical abnormalities. 

Eye issues are the second most common issue to occur in crested geckos. If they are not able to properly shed, they can retain their eye caps. Retained eye caps can lead to injury and infection, not to mention impair vision. Other issues can include general injury and infection. Any eye problems should be seen by a veterinarian immediately. 

For females, egg retention or becoming “egg bound” is a main concern. Typically this is due to calcium/vitamin D3 deficiency, but can occur from other health issues as well. Unfortunately, there really are no home remedies and she will need to visit a veterinarian. 

Respiratory infections are common in these geckos and often result from inadequate humidity levels in their enclosure. Often pet stores tell owners to provide excessive humidity, which can be catastrophic for this desert breed. If your gecko is showing signs of a respiratory infection, such as discharge from the nose or eyes or rapid/labored breathing, seek veterinary attention immediately. 

Tail loss- crested geckos are one of the types of reptiles that can “drop” their tails as a defense mechanism. They can also grow them back! However, If your crested gecko is “dropping” its tail on a frequent basis, there may be an underlying health issue going on. We would recommend seeking veterinary attention for geckos that are dropping their tails frequently or when unprovoked (if it seems like there is no reason). 

Floppy-tail is a condition that occurs in some Cresties and is a result of them living in captivity. Typically it is the fault of the Crested Gecko’s pelvic muscles losing the ability to support the tail, so the tail flops about uncontrollably. It typically is due to the gecko resting against the glass of the enclosure. 

Stomatitis, also known as mouth-rot,  or inflammation of the mouth, is also common for these reptiles. Typically stomatitis is due to injury, nutritional deficiencies, or environmental issues. It can easily lead to infection and should always be treated by a veterinarian. 

Enigma Syndrome is a neurological disorder that affects cognitive behavior and balance. Often this is the result of improper heating of their enclosure or improper nutrition. You should seek veterinary help if you notice any neurological inconsistencies or have concerns. 

Aside from a female about to lay a clutch of eggs, geckos should see a veterinarian if they gain or lose weight rapidly, have sunken/hollow eyes, difficulty breathing, diarrhea or other gastrointestinal issues, injuries, seem very lethargic, or have any other concerning symptoms. 

Stuck shed occurs when a reptile is unable to free themselves of their shed skin. It is often a sign of dehydration, and any shedding reptile should have access to a humid hide. If the shed becomes stuck and is not loosened and removed carefully, infections and scale rot can occur. 

Scale rot is a broad term that refers to any type of dermatitis on a reptile, which can be caused by an infection, burn, inflammation, and more. It is often caused by poor husbandry (incorrect environment for the specific reptile) and/or unsanitary living.