Panther Chameleons

Proper Husbandry:

Panther chameleons are native to Madagascar. They thrive in a tropical, humid climate.  

Below we will cover proper enclosures, temperature and humidity, lighting, feeding + nutritional requirements, reproductive complications (regardless of breeding), temperament, and common health problems.

Enclosure 

These amazing reptiles are arboreal, which means that they need tall enclosures with plenty of things to climb on. 

- Please ensure that all vines and decorations in the enclosure can support their full weight, as they will climb on literally everything, and falling can cause injury. 

- They prefer to have different basking heights. They need to be able to freely move up and down throughout the enclosure, so not all decorations need to be set at the same height.  They also prefer to have “hiding” spots.

- They can thrive in either bioactive or artificial environments. If live plants are placed in the enclosure, they will likely take bites out of them from time to time, so ensure that the types of plants used are non toxic. Refrain from using plants that have been treated with fertilizer and/or pesticides as these can also be harmful. 

-They prefer at least partially screened enclosures, as full glass enclosures can retain too much humidity and prevent air movement.Some sides of the enclosure will likely need to be solid to help retain humidity.

-Please keep them out of the direct line of an ac/heating vent that can rapidly change the temperature of their ambient air. 

-When they are babies, they can easily tolerate a smaller screened enclosure, such as a 16”x16”x20”. As they grow they will need plenty of room to move around. The minimum size for an adult is a 2’x2’x4’, however they would thrive in a larger area. Custom built enclosures can provide more space than a store-bought one. 

Temperatures and humidity:

Panther chameleons thrive in tropical climates, as they are native to madagascar. They enjoy heat and humidity, however, like all reptiles need a cool space to escape to in order to regulate temperature.  

Humidity should always stay over 50%, however it should be maintained around 70% with occasional spikes up to 85-90%. This can be easily measured by using a hygrometer placed in the middle of the enclosure. Automated misting systems are preferred, as they can be set to run once the humidity dips below a certain point. However, consistent manual misting of the enclosure (5+ times per day) is sufficient.

Temperature: 

- All reptiles need access to a warm side and a cool side of the enclosure, as they are unable to thermoregulate (regulate their own temperature through bodily function). The term “side” can mean either a difference in the temperature vertically or horizontally depending on the cage setup. 

-The cool side needs to be 77-84 °F during the day and the hot side needs to be between 85-95°F. Nightime temps can drop, but need to be above 75 °F. 

- We recommend using either a ceramic heat emitter or a heat bulb to maintain temperatures. Utilizing a thermostat will ensure the heat is controlled and not too hot for your pet. The larger the enclosure, the larger the necessary bulb wattage.  These heating sources need to be outside of the enclosure or separated by a barrier so the chameleon cannot attempt to crawl on them and accidentally burn themselves. 

Diet:

Panther Chameleons consume a wide variety of food in the wild, therefore they need a variety of food in captivity. Feeding a variant diet will help ensure that they will receive all the nutrients they need. They should consume both safe (non- toxic)  insects and a variety of safe vegetation. 

- For insects, they should be offered a variety of mealworms, super worms, wax worms, crickets, dubia roaches, and hornworms. These insects should be captive raised, to prevent feeding them insects that may have pesticides, parasites, and unsafe fertilizers. Hornworms and wax worms should be fed more sparingly, as they have less of the nutrients that reptiles need and are more of a “dessert” to them. Insects should be “gut-loaded” which means fed a nutrient rich diet for at least 48 hours prior to being fed to the chameleon.  

- For vegetation, they should be offered a small bowl of mixed greens, vegetables (vegetables high in water content are a great way to get more water in their system), fruits, hibiscus flowers, and ficus plants. 

- Chameleons in captivity need help maintaining vitamin D3 and calcium levels. Their food will need to be dusted with a calcium powder at each and every meal. In pet stores you can purchase calcium powder, and a combo of calcium and D3. It is recommended that Calcium only be used for most of their meals, and 1-2 times a week use the Calcium/D3 combo powder. Do not use calcium with phosphorus added, as this can damage the kidneys and cause gout. Failure to provide calcium can lead to a variety of health issues, with the most common being Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). 

- Remember that some insects and vegetation are toxic. Toxic insects that should never be fed to a chameleon include: Lady bugs, fireflies, monarch butterflies, lubber hoppers, horn worms that have been on tomato plants, box elder beetles, assassins bugs, centipedes, hairy caterpillars, milkweed bugs, bees or wasps-Unless stingers removed, spiders

some butterflies & moths, isopods. For information on toxic vegetation please refer to a chameleon safe plant list. Keep in mind that safe plants can easily be made unsafe with the use of fertilizers and pesticides, which can live in the soil for quite some time. 

Lighting: 

In addition to a heating source, chameleons need special lighting to help maintain vitamin D3 levels. They will need a specialized reptile artificial UVB bulb over/in their cage that stays on for 10-12 hours each day. The size/output of the bulb necessary will vary depending on cage size and depth. The bulb will need to span the length of the cage, so a “light bar” is preferred. Chameleonacademy.com/uvb/ has an excellent diagram displaying the best lighting strengths and placement for each cage scenario. 

Temperament:

Chameleons are “loners” and prefer to be housed alone without a view of other chameleons. Placing two cages next to one another without a visual barrier between them will leave room for aggression and aggression-caused-injuries. 

We would not recommend housing other types of reptiles or amphibians with them, as they will likely cause harm to those critters, or attempt to fight and can injure themselves. 

Just like other reptiles, it will take some time for them to become comfortable with handling. We recommend handling in short intervals until they get used to you. Once grown, they can both scratch and bite. The males will also hiss when provoked. 

Keep in mind that they are arboreal and can climb any household decorations and easily become out of reach of retrieval, so keep a close eye on them when they are out of their enclosures.

Due to their aggressive nature, please take great caution when introducing males and females for breeding purposes. When breeding, it is best to introduce the male into the female’s enclosure. This will help prevent possible injury and aggression due to a male's territorial tendencies.

Females: 

• Female chameleons will lay eggs every 3-6 months, regardless of breeding status. Eggs laid without breeding are “infertile”. If sperm have been introduced to them, they are “fertile”.

• A group of eggs laid at once is called a “clutch”. She will gain a lot of weight right before laying her clutch. 

• She also may abandon food for a few days prior to laying. 

• They will need a bowl or pot of soft dirt to lay them in, often referred to as a “laying bin”. 

• Without having a place to lay them, they will likely refuse to lay their eggs and this can cause serious medical issues. 

• They can also become “egg bound” which refers to the inability to lay eggs, which is a medical emergency. 

• She can also store sperm from a previous mating and use it to fertilize several clutches of eggs. 

• Females are more prone to prolapsed cloaca ( the hole by which they breed and urinate and poop), which is a medical emergency. A prolapse is when the part of the cloaca that should not be seen and is on the inside, pops out. 

Males:

• Male chameleons have pores on the inside of their thighs, called femoral pores, which secrete pheromones. The purpose of the pheromones is to mark their territory and attract mates. These pores can become clogged, resulting in discomfort and occasionally infection. The pores naturally will appear to have a plug, and that does not necessarily mean that they are clogged. If the pores are clogged or “impacted”, you will notice a fluid-like secretion from around the plug. The area will be red and swollen as well. If you suspect pore impaction, you should seek veterinary care, as antibiotics and professional removal of the plug. 

• Males can have prolapsed hemipenes, which is when their reproductive organs become stuck on the outside of the body. Their hemipenes are just inside of 

Common medical issues: 

The most common medical issue that chameleons can have is Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), which can be fatal. This is typically the result of a calcium and vitamin D3 deficient reptile. If proper lighting and food supplementation are not maintained, MBD is almost guaranteed to happen. Signs of MBD include: lethargy, difficulty standing or walking and controlling limbs, swollen joints (mainly in legs), muscle twitches, flexible bones, fragile bones, and curvature of the spine. Often one of the early signs of MBD is during the process of walking, your chameleon will grab onto his front legs with his back feet unintentionally. Leg movements will also be erratic and abnormal. Chameleons with this disease should be removed from tall enclosures and placed in an enclosure where they cannot fall and injure themselves further. With proper treatment, metabolic bone disease can be slowly reversed, but most of the time a treated reptile will still have some physical abnormalities. 

Eye issues are the second most common issue to occur in chameleons. They are prone to abscesses on the inside of their turret, or the tissue that covers most of the eye. They are also prone to general eye infections. If eye problems such as swelling of the turret or discharge from the eye are noticed, seek veterinary attention immediately.   

For female chameleons, egg retention or becoming “egg bound” is a main concern. Typically this is due to calcium/vitamin D3 deficiency, but can occur from other health issues as well. Unfortunately, there really are no home remedies and she will need to visit a veterinarian. 

Respiratory infections are common in panther chameleons and often result from inadequate humidity levels in their enclosure. Often pet stores tell owners to provide excessive humidity, which can be catastrophic for this desert breed. If your chameleon is showing signs of a respiratory infection, such as discharge from the nose or eyes or rapid/labored breathing, seek veterinary attention immediately. 

Aside from a female chameleon about to lay a clutch of eggs, chameleons should see a veterinarian if they gain or lose weight rapidly, have sunken/hollow eyes, difficulty breathing, diarrhea or other gastrointestinal issues, injuries, seem very lethargic, or have any other concerning symptoms. 

Stuck shed occurs when a reptile is unable to free themselves of their shed skin. It is often a sign of dehydration, and any shedding reptile should have access to a humid hide. If the shed becomes stuck and is not loosened and removed carefully, infections and scale rot can occur. 

Scale rot is a broad term that refers to any type of dermatitis on a reptile, which can be caused by an infection, burn, inflammation, and more. It is often caused by poor husbandry (incorrect environment for the specific reptile) and/or unsanitary living.